All markets are built upon the backs of slave labor....until they aren’t
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Cocoa Beans
First time maker. We had some issues for sure but the one thing you for sure take for granted is how to work somewhat cleanly, and how to handle liquid chocolate well. We made a serious mess and it was quite a process to get the melanger clean again. So turn that big brain on and dump all your knowledge about working with chocolate and cleaning. Please be gentle with me.
The new crop of Ecuador Palo Santo has arrived and it is delightfully lively.
I’m not joking around today, we’re talking about a sensitive topic in the Chocolate Industry. Cocoa Moths.
How does latent moisture in your ingredients (like Cocoa beans) change the working properties of your chocolate? Alchemist john ran some experiments to find out.
“A year ago I took a chocolate tasting class from the IICCT. During a tasting in the class, the instructor said that he tasted a little rancid cocoa butter in one of the samples. He said that it is something that many of the tasters are starting to notice during some tastings. So, if rancid cocoa butter is an issue, what temperature are we supposed to be storing it at?”
After such a long and in depth viscosity discussion last week, I think we all deserve a simple speed round of Q and A.
First up, our super popular 'it hardly stays in stock'
The subtle peated umami seems to throw some people for a loop. If it isn’t clear, I love it. Please go check it out!
Piura Blanco Organic 2022 - The aroma is an interesting mix of persimmon and apricot.
For those not familiar with the nature of most wild harvested cocoa, they are very small and pack a huge flavor punch. The Wild Bolivia is there on the left.
We have a VERY limited supply of the incredibly popular Heirloom Wild Bolivia Tranquilidad. Before I even had a chance to send this email out, half of our stock disappeared to folks that lovingly pestered me to let them know when it was arriving.
There is light raisin with its deep sweetness and pronounced tangy acidity. Once you start to savor the chocolate and roll it around in your mouth you will note a solid backbone of bitterness and perfectly balanced astringency. The finish is long and sweet, redolent of dark juicy fruits and a smooth, soft, lingering lighted roasted pine nut suppleness that goes on and on.
On the heels of that, there is an even more dynamic and deeply satisfying bean, again out of the wilds of Bolivia.
May I present Wild Bolivia Rio Beni, Direct Trade, 2022.
There is so much going on here. It is so very earthy, with a dank funk (meant in the BEST way) that for me isn't off putting but instead alluring. The acidity and astringency are there but very much in the background. As you start to savor the chocolate and roll it around in your mouth you may note a lingering bitterness of green walnuts and an incredible clean sweetness that perfectly balances and integrates the entire profile. Least you not get the point, the flavor is a complex combination of bold, sweet and earthy that I find deeply satisfying. Basically look at the round and full spider chart. That's how it tastes.
Insert the question of your choice about the big headlines about lead and cadmium in chocolate.
I am opening a chocolate factory and want to make the best chocolate and know price is very important to sales. What is the cheapest bean you have? They must support the farmer. And can you turn them into nibs for me so I don’t need to buy so much expensive equipment.
Level: Novice maker, Apprentice cook
Read Time: 10 minutes
I really enjoy the ruby beans last year and want to try some of the mole you mentioned this year. Can you give me the recipe?
I have a love affair with deeply authentic Mexican mole. I adore the hours of preparation, sourcing the ingredients, the attention to detail, soaking, frying, chopping, blending this way and that, the long simmering and further smoothing all in services to the symphony of flavors of chili, spice, cocoa, savory umami and tradition that culminates in a dish that fulfills this place in my heart…..and sometimes…..I just don’t have the time or energy to do that.
My compromise is what I’m calling Gringo John’s kind of authentic in spirit but not really authentic at all Oaxacan black mole coloradito rápido.pulled pork.
I will readily admit it isn’t quite as good and rich and utterly delectable as a traditional mole but it is significantly more approachable and stands a chance of actually getting made and does satisfy and fulfills that place in my heart on many levels. There are still many ingredients but they are pretty well available and you can have the entire thing made and cooking in only 5-10 minutes. Most anywhere you see a dried or powdered ingredient, you can kick it up a notch by changing it out for the fresh version. Oh, and of course, the chocolate I’m using is the unfermented Oaxacan Lavados we are currently offering. When it runs out, any other 80% or even unsweetened chocolate will do, but I find this one has a particular punch that I really like. Without further delay:
Mole sauce
Optional add ins
1/2 c raisins
2 Medium tomato or 15 oz can fire roasted, chopped
3 Tomotillos, chopped
3 T seaseme seeds, ground
3 T almonds
4 oz Oaxacan 80% Lavados chocolate chopped or grated
3 T chili powder (Ancho powder If you can, but we are making this gringo style so whatever)
2 T Paprika (smoked if you can)
2 t cayenne pepper (or chipotle) or to taste
1 T dried garlic granules
1 T dried onion flakes
1 T black pepper, freshly ground
1 T cumin ground
1 T coriander ground
1 T cinnamon powder
1/2 t clove powder
1/2 t oregano
2 T masa harina
2 T vinegar of choice, I like balsalmic.
2 cups boiling water
For the pot
2-4 lb pork butt, salted
Oil of choice, bacon grease is my choice
1 large onion
Preparing the mole sauce:
Combine all the primary mole ingredients in a 1 quart mason jar and puree with an immersion blender. If you don’t have one, many blenders or food processors will work but be very careful that the boiling water does not cause it to spray out (been there, done that, 0/10 would not recommend).
If you want to add any or all of the optional ingredient, add those and blend again until smooth.
You can use this now or put away for another time.
Making the pulled pork
Pre-heat to 350 F
I like to salt my pork butt liberally on all sides, and let set for 1-3 days in the refrigerator (thank you Acid Salt Fat Heat https://www.saltfatacidheat.com/) but you can use it fresh also.
Heat an pan (I love my iron pans but non-stick are fine too) with about 2 T of oil just to smoking. I adore rendered bacon fat but use what you have. Sear the pork on all sides, 1-2 minutes per side, not forgetting the two ends.
Slice the onion, put in the bottom of a Dutch oven or baking dish with lid. Place the seared pork on top and cover with the mole sauce, and place in the oven.
After 30 minutes, turn down to 200 F and cook for 3 hours.
I love this served on fresh corn tortillas that I’ve made myself but you do you.
And for those that want to try their hand at some authentic mole, please check these out. You will see pretty quickly where my inspiration came from.
https://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/mole-coloradito
As promised last week, the two new crops of previous favorites have landed.
Think of this as the start of a FAQ. I also want to note there are some oddly phrased questions below and I’m leaving them as written, not to make fun of anyone as it is pretty obvious they are from folks who do not speak English as their first language and being monolingual myself, I applaud them for writing in. Their English is worlds better than my Spanish, Portuguese, Mandarin or Italian.
While ordering my cocoa beans from a supplier, I came across a couple of unfamiliar terms known as 1. Bean count 110/100gm and 2. Fermented bean percentage 85%. Kindly shed some light into this topic and please let me know if these are acceptable values for making good quality chocolate.
Depending how long you have been with the Chocolate Alchemy maker's family (yes, if you are reading this, you are part of the CA family), this may be an "at last, they are back" announcement or something you have never had the opportunity to experience. In either case, for me it is really exciting. It has been nearly 10 years since I have had beans from Venezuela and over a decade since I had the one from the Cuyagua region.
It has been too long since we have had either a new bean or crop in and today I'm happy to announce both.
A warm welcome and hello the new year everyone. I’ve quite a bit to let you know about so I hope you can take a few minutes to dig in.